26 de Maio de 2008

Memorial Day in the USA

Today is Memorial Day in the United States of America. It's a day dedicated to the memory of those men and women who gave the greatest sacrifice to preserve liberty and democracy. Many wars have been fought in the last century. The two most significant were WWI and WWII. These two wars changed Europe forever and for the better. The victory by the Allies over the Axis powers was possible only because of the USA. Europe today owes a great debt of gratitude to the young men who sacrificed their limbs and lives to defend the democracies of Europe from the tyranny of extreme right-wing and left-wing ideologies.

Today, many Europeans (even some of my own Soajeiros) ridicule the USA and belittle the sacrifice Americans gave to save them from certain domination and oppression by the Nazis. The USA has not always conducted its foreign policies in a way that befits a country founded on principles of liberty, justice and democracy. Yet, in the case of Europe, it shocks me to read the vitriol being spewed by European politicians of all political varieties.

The USA has rescued Europe more than once. On this Memorial Day, I wish that Europe would give a simple prayer for the fallen men and women who came to its rescue. I'm not suggesting that Europeans start having parades to celebrate the USA. I'm only asking that Europe simply take a break on this day from their anti-Americanism that is becoming so common across the continent.

On this day of rememberance, let's give a simple "thanks" to the USA and its brave soldiers who sacrificed so much to preserve the liberty of some very ungrateful people.

18 de Maio de 2008

Gerês: Pastores não receberam indemnizações

The Government's injustice toward Soajo is just incredible and borderline ridiculous. The PNPG, which is a morally bankrupt government agency, is behaving like the Salazarist dictatorship that created it in 1971. The government is denying the shepherds of Peneda-Gerês the proper compensation they deserve. It's ironic that a socialist government that purports to support the people is now denying them basic rights. Why is the government forcing shepherds out of their livelihood by denying them lawful and justifiable compensation? This article in TVNET says it all. The article ironically appeared on the 34th anniversary of the Portuguese revolution. Imagine, 34 years after the "carnation revolution" the country's farmer and shepherds are still being mistreated by their government.

O PNPG não paga há dois anos as indemnizações pelos animais mortos pelos lobos, para desespero dos pastores.
25 Abril 2008
O Parque Nacional da Peneda-Gerês (PNPG) não paga há dois anos as indemnizações pelos animais mortos pelos lobos, para desespero dos pastores e criadores de gado do Soajo, que se vêem forçados a abandonar a actividade.

A denúncia foi esta sexta-feira feita pelo presidente da Junta de Freguesia do Soajo, em Arcos de Valdevez, que sublinhou que estes atrasos no pagamento das indemnizações configuram "uma clara e absoluta ilegalidade", já que a lei estipula que elas devem ser pagas num prazo de 60 dias.

Manuel Barreira Costa disse ainda que esta situação é "verdadeiramente insustentável", tendo em consideração que "os ataques dos lobos são cada vez mais frequentes e mais próximos dos habitações". "Assim, não há quem resista", acrescentou.

O autarca sustentou que agora começaram a aparecer lobos com chips de identificação, "o que parece indiciar que estão a pôr mais animais no PNPG, como que se os que já existiam não dessem problemas que chegassem".

"O resultado disto é que os pastores desanimam e abandonam a actividade. Ainda estes dias, um pastor que tinha mais de 300 cabras decidiu vender os animais e arrumar o cajado", afirmou.

O director do PNPG, Henrique Pereira, confirmou que as indemnizações não são pagas desde meados de 2006 e que esta é uma situação de "incumprimento", justificada pela "falta de dinheiro".

Segundo Henrique Pereira, a dívida para os proprietários de gado do PNPG ascenderá, neste momento, a 250 mil euros, mas, no cômputo de toda a região norte, a verba chega ao meio milhão de euros.

"Não temos dinheiro e é só por isso que não pagamos a tempo e horas", acrescentou. Em relação aos lobos com chip, explicou que isso tem a ver com um estudo de monitorização dos impactes dos parques eólicos sobre as alcateias.

"A acusação de que estamos a introduzir mais lobos no parque não tem qualquer fundamento", garantiu. Segundo Henrique Pereira, neste momento haverá em todo o PNPG uma dezena de alcateias, com três a quatro lobos cada.

Os lobos são uma espécie protegida, pelo que não podem ser abatidos, nem mesmo quando estão a atacar rebanhos.

"São uma espécie protegida, mas quem os está a alimentar são os proprietários de gado, que volta e meia vêem os seus rebanhos dizimados. E a estes ninguém os protege", critica o autarca do Soajo.

TVNET/LUSA

11 de Maio de 2008

Video: Vila de Soajo

Enjoy this brief video of Soajo and Ermelo (another one of my favorite villages) to the Music of Beethoven's Symphony No. 9.

video

Rural Tourism in Soajo

Rural Tourism in Soajo

Vacationing in Soajo is easier now than ever before. In the last decade, the availability of rental homes has really expanded. In addition to the Casa do Adro Inn, which is a six-room inn located in the heart of Soajo next to the village church, there are about a dozen charming traditional homes that have been tastefully restored to maintain their rustic character. These homes can be rented through the Adere-Soajo Rental Agency.

Eating and Other Services
There are three excellent restaurants (Restaurante O Espigueiro de Soajo, Restaurante Saber ao Borralho and Restaurante Videira); four cafe/bars (O Jovem, Casa do Povo, Talho and Capelinha); a bank (Millennium BCP) with 24-hour ATM machine; a medical clinic; pharmacy; a lawyer; two grocery stores; a butcher shop; a general supply store; two bakeries; a pre-school; elementary school; church; a six-room hotel/pousada; and about a dozen vacation rental homes.

Cell phones have excellent reception in Soajo and in surrounding villages and roads. Inexpensive cell phones can be purchased for as low as $40-$50 (USD) in nearby Arcos de Valdevez. Most phones work on a pay-as-you-go basis. Signing up for a plan is not required. Just buy the phone and add as many minutes as you need. Additional minutes can be added at the local ATM machine in Soajo or at the local grocery store (Mariano's in Carreiras).


8 de Maio de 2008

Poço das Canejas

Poço das Canejas

This photo of Poço das Canejas in Soajo was sent to me by our friend and grande Soajeiro, Vasco Enes Domingues.

Perhaps I shouldn't be publishing too many pictures of our beautiful swimming spots in Soajo. We should keep these a secret so they can be enjoyed by us. But, after all, this is a Blog promoting Soajo. Soajo has so much beauty that it's really difficult to resist the urge to show it off to the world. I love Poço das Canejas and hope it remains a tranquil place to cool off in the hot summer months.

4 de Maio de 2008

Polo de Cova


Polo de Cova

Whenever I go to Soajo I always make the mountain climb to Cova. To me, it is a "pilgrimage" that I will make for as long as I'm able to make the 2-3 hour climb.

In this photo is the small stone hut in Cova. It’s an ancient shepherd's hut, where they would find protection in case of a sudden change of weather. There are a few of these huts (dolmens) scattered around the National Park, and in particular in this "enchanted" valley. How old it it? The stones don't speak but people believe they stood there since before Portugal became a country (that's 1143), others say since before the Romans arrived...

The "modern" hut in this picture has no owner. Every person or group visiting this place is responsible for keeping it and preserving it. There is no road leading there, for me it's impressive how Soajeiros built the roof. Today, it is more used by hikers or mountaineers than by shepherds.

It's a kind of a peaceful feeling to know that there is always a shelter nearby in case of need. And probably you will even find people and warm food there.

Vilar de Suente (Soajo)

Vilar de Suente (Soajo)

Here's an excellent view of Vilar de Suente, one of the seven smaller villages "lugares" that make-up the Freguesia de Soajo. The other six lugares are:

Lugar de Cunhas
; Lugar de Paradela; Lugar da Várzea; Lugar de Vilarinho das Quartas; Lugar de Adrão; and, Lugar do Campo Grande.

Poço das Mantas

Poço das Mantas

This photo of
Poço das Mantas in Soajo was sent to me by our firend Rosa Freitas. This swimming hole is a perfect place to cool off in the heat of the summer.

Obrigado Rosa por enviares esta linda fotografia.

2 de Maio de 2008

Melhor Lagoa do Alto Minho

Poco Negro

The best swimming spot in all of Alto Minho is the Poco Negro. This swimming hole has a depth of 15-20 feet. Those who dare, can dive from as high as 30-40 feet. The fresh mountain water is generally pretty cold, but it's perfect in July and August. The area is very rocky to navigate so good shoes (sneakers) are recommended. Getting to Poco Negro is easy... just drive or walk from Soajo toward Paradela or Cunhas and you'll see Poco Negro about a mile from Soajo's center
.

As a children, this is where all Soajeiros learned how to swim and dive from the cliffs. Lots of memories have been made here on these rocks and surrounding fields.

1 de Maio de 2008

Wolves and Bureaucrats

I published this commentary on www.soajo.net on December 19, 2007....Now that shepherds in Soajo are giving up their livelihood due to the PNPG's two year delay in compensating them for losses of livestock, the commentary remains relevant.

Wolves and Bureaucrats

The Iberian wolf is a beautiful animal. It is also feared and despised by farmers everywhere, especially in the Alto Minho region and in Soajo. For centuries, wolves and farmers have been at war, forever in competition for territory. For this, wolves are despised. And unfortunately hunted down.

Wolves are intelligent, brave and ferocious hunters. They kill only what they need to survive and to feed the clan. Like all animals of the planet, they deserve to live. Wolves are misunderstood animals.

Men have feared wolves mostly because of the stories and myths passed on from one generation to the next. While it is true that wolves occasionally will kill domestic livestock, they mostly target wildlife like red deer or roe deer. Unfortunately, hunters have encroached on that natural food source by over hunting, leaving the wolves with no choice but to hunt domestic animals like older or injured cows, newborn calves, lambs and goats.

Only one attack on a human has been reported in Portugal. And that was because a wolf was infected with rabies, which is no longer known to be present in Portugal.

But let’s get back to the issue of attacks on domestic animals. Farmers and shepherds of Soajo have a right to protect their animals. These animals are their property. Lots of hard work and expense is involved in raising and caring for these animals.

Wolves too should be protected. They should not be hunted to the point of extinction. Eradicating wolves from the Alto Minho region would be a travesty on the level of killing baby seals and hunting whales. It would be a disgusting example of mankind’s excessive nature to destroy yet another species.

But how can a balance be achieved between the rights of farmers to protect their livestock and the right of wolves to live in their ancestral region?

This is where the government bureaucrats come into the story. The people of Soajo and surrounding villages nearly hunted the wolf into extinction. The people were so fed up with wolves killing their livestock that they retaliated in a big way by waging an eradication campaign. This campaign nearly succeeded.

But about thirty years ago, the native wolf was reintroduced to the region by the government. In return, farmers were promised compensation for animals killed by the wolves. On the surface, this seems like a fair deal. But the reality is quite different.

Governments all over the world tend to be inefficient and bureaucratic. In Portugal, bureaucracy is raised to an art form. Therefore, what should have been a simple plan to compensate farmers for lost animals has become instead yet another example of false and undelivered promises.

Government compensation has been slow, if at all. All domesticated animals are tagged and registered. But because animals are often killed while grazing in the mountains, evidence is sometimes never found. If the tag is lost, the farmer is generally out of luck. The burden of proof is placed squarely on the farmer.

The government must do a better job. It is time for Portugal’s government to truly elevate itself to a higher level of governance on par with modern European societies. The government was right to reintroduce the wolves to the Alto Minho region. It is a noble policy to protect an endangered species. The government should also be applauded for making it illegal to kill wolves. But the policy should not come at the expense of subsistence farmers and poor shepherds whose loss of animals is a great financial burden for entire families.

The government must be more responsive in compensating farmers. It should not take years to process payments. Wolves belong in Alto Minho. They have existed in the region for many centuries and should be protected from extinction. It is a good policy. At the same time, poor farmers should not shoulder the financial burden resulting from this policy.

The government must do a better job in processing claims by farmers. Doing so would make the people of Soajo and Alto Minho better understand the policy and more willing to co-exist with their ancient archenemy. The people of Soajo would perhaps embrace the wolf. Until then, the government’s policy, similar to any other unfunded mandate, will be viewed with suspicion and resentment.

It is time that the government reform its bureaucracy and become more efficient in administering this worthy program.

Jose Afonso
December 19, 2007



Ponte da Ladeira


Ponte da Ladeira

The Bridge of Ladeira has as a main feature a single arc of narrow "aduelas", built on the solid base of two walls, causing a double-board ramp or a small bridge with low parapets. The bridge is part of an ancient foot road to the village of Lindoso.

When I was kid I used to swim under the bridge while my mother and aunts worked in the fields we own nearby. As a kid, I would jump from the top of the bridge's arc. The water was always cool, even in August. I think that the shade upstream keeps the water cold during the summer.

The monks of the Monastery of Ermelo contributed not only to its construction but also its maintenance. In my opinion, Ermelo happens to be one of the most beautiful villages in the entire region. But this will be the subject of future blog.

The following description of the Monastery comes from Casas do Campo .....

"Despite forming part of the Cistercian Order, this monastery had a rather short and troubled life. On his visit here in 1553, the abbot of Clairvaux found it to be totally abandoned and in a state of extreme poverty, so that it was secularised in 1560 and converted into a parish church. What can be seen at Ermelo nowadays is a beautiful Romanesque church, adapted in the modern era to the life of a small parish. All that now remains of the nave once situated at the southern end of the church is the beautiful triumphal arch standing outside the building and exposed to the elements. At the opposite end, the chapel has been adapted to form the sacristy and a bell-tower has also been added. At the top is the beautiful and slightly overhanging Romanesque rose-window that used to provide light for the nave. The monastery's outbuildings used to spread southwards. Here, we can still find an arcade of semi-circular arches, which are in fact the remains of the monastery's ruined cloister. The walk along the river's romantic banks provides a unique experience of intimate contact with the beauty and sounds of Nature."

Liberty for Soajo

In 20 to 30 years, Soajo, the village that my ancestors carved into the side of the Serra de Soajo will be a virtual desert! The PNPG's restrictions on economic developments within the park is a major reason for the destruction of Soajo. Soajo has virtually no children or teenagers residing there. Most residents are elderly or retirees. Without economic development, the young people have no choice but to move to the cities or other countries to scrape out a living.

Why has the government and PNPG permitted this to happen?

The answer is pretty simple: Soajo is more valuable to the country as a tourist destination than as a farming village.

The government has declared Soajo a "patrimonio nacional". By doing so the government is basically saying that Soajo belongs to the "nation". In other words, as a national patrimony, Soajo belongs as much to Lisboetas and Portuenses as it does to Soajeiros.

But Soajo is valuable to the government only as long as it remains beautiful, natural, and clean and hospitable. If an earthquake destroyed much of Soajo, destroying its beauty, would the government care anymore about "preserving" Soajo? If Soajo became ugly, would the government continue to care about Soajo?

In 20 or 30 years Soajo will become a desert. Retirees living there now, including my family, will most likely be with our ancestors in heaven. The people who will take over then will be the vacationers and the wealthy visiting their weekend homes. The fields that were so expertly carved into teh mountain and so lovingly cultivated for the past 1000 years will be overrun with brush and silvas. Many of the "caminhos" will no longer be visible. The new people of Soajo will not even know how to walk to the Ponte de Ladeira because the pathway will not longer be cleared because the people who used to cut the vegetation and the animals that used to graze on the vegetation will have disappeared.

It's time to prevent the coming disaster for Soajo. The government and PNPG must begin to treat Soajo's residents with the respect they deserve.

Soajo is a beautiful village indeed. And it belongs to Soajeiros, not the entire country. My ancestors built Soajo. Soajo was not built by the government. And most definitely not by the bureaucrats ("funcionarios") of the PNPG.

Soajo should not be held captive by the PNPG. Soajo must be freed to determine the destiny that best suits Soajo. If one thing is certain, the PNPG will never love or care about Soajo as much as Soajeiros. Only Soajeiros know what's best for Soajo!